26 mai 2019

GR5 - Day 34 - Elsass



18.05

We saw seven castles today, over the course of around 30K. Bernstein castle, where we slept and rose with Marie the mouse; then a couple of ruins, the village of Châtenois, the huge red standing fortress of Haut-Koenigsbourg (so many tourists! coaches ! people!), the village of Thannenkirch, three more ruins, and finally Ribeauvillé.

We loved Bernstein so much (its atmosphere, its views; the tower stairs, the woods) that the others didn't really stand a chance.

The sky is still gey, heavy and sticky, but there's no rain, which we are thankful for. It's a tank top day, too humid for anything ressembling sleeves in any way.
Wide variety of forest paths, and an especially treacherous downhill over cascades of rocks down to the plain of Ribeauvillé. All day we follow the foothills, cliffs on our right, plain on our left, and incredible views unfold over the ruined towers. Beige valley, blue hills, white mist, and all the greens of leaves and grass.

We kept saying : it's way too beautiful. Such a wonderful region, the hills filled with life and stones, the houses topped with storks; the sky huge and close at once, the moutains spreading round. In Thannenkirch the cutest bookbox welcomed us and sent us on our way. A deaf man took us hitching to Bergheim, and they had belgian beer in the tavern on the old village walls.

Oh, and we managed to catch the entirety of the Eurovision contest that evening. 






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